The Quirky Museums of Kyiv

While planning our trip to Kyiv, I came across several recommendations of museums that I couldn’t resist putting down in my itinerary. While my husband and I had decided to travel ‘slow’ and not try and do everything we were recommended, we ended up visiting all of them!

Let’s begin with the ‘National Museum of the History of Ukraine in World War II’ open-air museum currently known as ‘Ukrainian State Museum of the Patriotic War that displayed a wide range of military equipment used during the German-Soviet war between 1941 to 1945 and later too. Located in a large area, the museum had a rather mind-boggling display of tanks, rifles, submarines, fighter jets. It felt as if I were part of some WW2 movie set amidst this mass destruction equipment. Just picturing the harm they may have caused or are capable of, gave the place a rather eerie vibe.

As much as I marveled at the innovation and technology behind these, I couldn’t help but think of the enormous amount of investment countries pour into invading borders and defending their own.

Standing tall at 335 feet in the same area is the Motherland Statue – a symbol of the Soviet Union, constructed in 1981. Although controversial and surviving several debates on demolition, the Motherland Statue is made of stainless steel with a sword in one hand and a shield in the other. We saw similar statues in other former USSR countries like Georgia and Azerbaijan that served as a reminder of the Soviet era.

Next up is the Making of the Ukrainian Nation Museum. With a rather odd name, this museum gives a high-tech 5D experience through life-sized wax statues of historical figures, 3D animation, sounds and smells of the bygone years, and a varied display of artifacts. Right from the founding of Kyiv by the Slavs in the 4th century, through the Kyiv Rus era up until the 2014 Revolution, this modern museum is a must-visit.  My favorite part was being able to play the traditional drums and scrolling historical facts through the immersive LED screen. I left the museum amazed by the bravery and sacrifice on the part of Ukrainians during the wars which we don’t get to see in movies or read in history books.

Well, let’s move on to another fun museum. On a rare cloudy day during our 5-day stay in Kyiv, we headed to the ‘One Street Museum’. The name itself was catchy enough to add to our Must-Dos in the city.  Dedicated to the history of Kyiv’s most popular street Andrew’s Descent (Andreyevsky Spusk) that housed several of Kyiv’s aristocrats including artists, writers, politicians, doctors, academics, and merchants. Located on the same street, this quirky museum teleports you back in time and space from the Middle Ages to the present day. We were greeted and welcomed by a very warm receptionist who handed us a guided booklet.

The museum had thousands of items of daily use meticulously arranged in a rather compact space. Some amusing artifacts included the entrance with 3D figures and murals (I was quite tempted to twirl the specky gentleman’s mustache), a table set with playing cards (it almost felt like the residents had gone out for a quick smoke and would return to see us curiously pondering over their table), the detailed wood carving on an umbrella handle and a teacup with a mustache protector!

Much to our surprise, in the mid 19th century, Andrew’s Descent was known as the local red-light district with a lot of brothels, the so-called ‘houses of tolerance’. We stepped out on street picturing what that very street and houses would have looked like back in time only to be interrupted by the lovely smelling bakery next door that we couldn’t resist stopping by for some dessert and tea while we watched raindrops lash on the street slope.

Now that I have got you hooked to museums, I think you might be ready for the unexpected…

The Museum of Toilet History. Yep, you read that right. Kyiv has a whole museum dedicated to well, Toilets!

Also holding the current Guinness World Record for the largest collection of souvenir toilet-related items, this museum displays the history and interesting fun facts about the evolution of toilets across centuries.

From the first public toilets in ancient Rome to the medieval ‘wardrobe’ toilets to the ‘air toilets’ in Swiss castles, the museum is rather amusing.

I also learned how bidets were a symbol of royalty and were exchanged as gifts back in the day. Another quirky insight was of how ‘sewage collector’ was a legit job and the famous Italian theatre mask resembling a bird-face was in fact inspired by the sewage collector’s mask – the purpose of which was to ward off the smell by placing fragrant herbs in the ‘beak’.

The evolution of the toilet system from a hole in the ground to the high-tech Japanese commode is a significant mark for human civilization. To think of it, the topic leaves much space for research on history and culture, art and design, medicine and hygiene, even technology and innovation. In the process of writing this blog post, I came across WTO – World Toilet Organization based in Singapore that aims to study and promote sanitation while developing toilet standards across the world.

There’s always so much to learn while you travel and museums are indeed a great way to deep dive into a variety of topics that could give you a ride back in time and even at times make you ponder over the world around you.

Kyiv Chronicles

“Chernobyl” or “neighboring Russia” are probably the first things that pop up in most heads when they hear ‘Ukraine’. Believe me, the country is no short of a treasure trove of historical events, offbeat museums, mouthwatering food, art, and deep underground metro stations.

The capital Kyiv is built on seven hills and named after the oldest brother among the four Slavic siblings (Kyi, Schek, Khoryv & Lybed) who founded the city in the 5th century. You probably won’t feel it much while you take the underground metro or a cab to commute in Kyiv, but once you set on foot, there’s a lot of climbing to do!

Culture tidbit: If you ever wondered what the difference between Kyiv and Kiev was, here’s a quick explanation. “Kyiv” is an official Latin transliteration of the city’s name in the Ukrainian language. “Kiev” however was part of ‘Russification’, Russia’s way of banning the use of Ukrainian language in print and other actions during the Soviet Era (1922-1991) to strengthen Russian linguistic and political positions in Ukraine.

Coming back to present-day Kyiv, what stands out the most are its pear-shaped golden domes adorning the white and blue-hued cathedrals. The capital played an important role in preserving the traditions of Orthodox Christianity especially in the times of the domination of Catholic Poland and the atheist Soviet Union.

These cathedrals and churches have the most awe-inspiring architecture not just on the outside but also in their interiors that is sure to give a sense of calm and peace to anyone irrespective of his/her religious beliefs.

The sight to behold was that of Pechersk Lavra – the UNESCO World Heritage Site is a cave monastery founded in 1051 and has been the preeminent center of Eastern Orthodox Christianity in Eastern Europe. Spread across a large area, my husband and I were quite lost with the lack of directions in English. Thanks to a friendly local who in his very limited English agreed to show us to the caves. It was nothing close to what I had expected and even hard to describe – we navigated through the narrow alleyways with tombs, photos, and holy inscriptions with candlelight fearing we might lose our new friend in the dark. We later found him praying and sniffing in one of the rooms and decided to let him be. The place did radiate strong indescribable energy…

Located on the same hilly campus, were the cathedral and a bell tower with a gorgeous view of the capital city. Built in the 18th century, this bell tower was the highest free-standing structure of its time. We made the 374-step climb worthwhile by spending a good 30 minutes enjoying the pleasant breeze on a blistering summer day.

The campus also had an interesting micro-miniature museum and Ukrainian Folk Art Museum that we thoroughly enjoyed while trying to control our growling bellies. Five whole hours had just flown past in the Pechersk Lavra premises and we couldn’t wait to head to our favorite traditional restaurant – Mitla!

Ukrainian traditional foods have a good spread of vegetarian options although it primarily includes meaty delicacies. We relished a sizable portion of Varenyky (potato, mushroom, and cabbage dumplings) with sour cream and a piping hot bowl of Borsch (beetroot soup with carrot, potatoes, and cabbage garnished with finely chopped dill) served with Paska bread. The locals call it the most flexible soup as you can add any preferred vegetable or meat to the beetroot stock and it would taste as delish. Dessert would typically include a cottage cheese pancake with fresh cream and berry sauce – my favorite.

All this scrummy food accompanied with the vibrant Petrykyivka decor and upbeat Ukrainian folk music made all our meal experiences in the capital quite extraordinary.

Stay tuned for more on the quirky museums and street art in Kyiv along with a ride to the world’s deepest underground metro station!