5 Most Unexpected Experiences in Saudi Arabia

If there’s anything called a positive culture shock, this article is all about it.

Being on the cusp of cultural transition and diversifying the country’s previously oil-based economy, there has been a strong focus on identifying and restoring historically significant locations, promoting traditional and contemporary art, and loosening the otherwise stringent social norms.

Having lived in the Kingdom for nearly 3 years, I can proudly say that I have been part of history in the making! Below are some experiences that are not only groundbreaking for an otherwise conservative culture, but also stand as benchmark worthy developments in the history of the Gulf region.

Al Rajhi Mosque, Riyadh

1. An Electronic Dance Music concert!

In December 2021, Saudi Arabia hosted the second edition of the biggest EDM concert called MDL Beast Soundstorm on the outskirts of Riyadh. More than half a million people attended this four-day multi-genre music, art, and culture festival – making it the largest music festival in the world! It played host to a spectacular lineup of some of the world’s celebrated musicians and DJs like David Guetta, Afrojack, DJ Tiesto, The Chainsmokers, Armin Van Buuren, DJ Snake, Benny Benassi, among hundred others. Again, a giant leap in the cultural transformation and openness in accepting diverse forms of entertainment.

Dancing to EDM beats by Afrojack

2. Evolving Art scene

Contemporary art galleries are thriving in the capital city of Riyadh, showcasing several modern artworks by Saudi and international artists.

With Ahlam Alshedoukhy – a contemporary Saudi artist who runs Ahlam Art Gallery in Riyadh – a platform for aspiring contemporary artists to showcase their artwork

Riyadh recently hosted Bienalsur and Biennale, world-traveling exhibitions displaying installations by several renowned artists from Argentina, Poland, South Korea, England, Spain, the USA among others.

Biennale 2022 themed ‘Feeling the Stones’ – Jax 01, Diriyah, Saudi Arabia

There has also been a boost in grants and residency programs encouraging expression through modern art. MISK Art Institute (established by the Crown Prince Mohammad Bin Salman), recently hosted an Art week displaying several intriguing works by young international and local artists. A culturally surprising change given that representing any form of the human figure was considered taboo (haraam in Arabic) until quite recently.

Wall mural at Jax 03, Diriyah

The Angry Singer (2015) by Sudanese artist Salah Elmur at MiSK Art Week, Riyadh

Future Present – a contemporary art exhibition at La Pur Art Gallery (Riyadh) organized by the Germany Embassy and Saudi Ministry of Culture

Sacred Spaces by Bahraini artist Noor Alwan – patterns inspired by her family tradition

3. Times Square in Riyadh?

Riyadh Boulevard – a setup offering a variety of entertainment including cafes, fine dining by the fountain, cinema theater, a ski rink, live music, football club lounges, carnival with several interactive stalls and games, you name it! An extravagant NYC-style LED display with bright lights and peppy music welcomes you at the entrance as you stroll past a plethora of ‘concept stores’ (another upcoming trend).

Riyadh Boulevard City entrance

One of the most gripping experiences at the Boulevard has been watching the classic Cirque Du Soleil – Messi 10. A Canadian entertainment group and the world’s biggest contemporary circus producer left the Saudi audience exhilarated with their acrobatic stunts, dance moves, and a cleverly woven story dedicated to the Argentine footballer, Lionel Messi. So much so that the Saudi lady next to me couldn’t resist whistling away!

Cirque Du Soleil – Messi 10

Cirque Du Glace – enchanting figure-skating performances at Riyadh Boulevard City

Another fun experience was teaming up, winning challenges, and finding my way through the Crystal Maze (remember the popular 90s British show hosted by Richard O’Brien? Every 90s kid in Saudi Arabia would know of it).

Crystal Maze experience at Riyadh Boulevard

4. SDF

In January’22, I attended Saudi Design Festival (SDF), the first of its kind festival in the Middle East hosted by the Architecture and Design Commission of Saudi Arabia that aimed at bringing together a multidisciplinary group of creatives to connect, reimagine and build the future of design in the Kingdom. With interesting pavilions, studios, and kiosks hosted by upcoming designers, I couldn’t help but notice the immense pool of talent the country has to offer. What stood out the most were a 100-poster installation by MISK Art Institute and Zero Waste product studio by Quby.

Poster collage by MISK Art Institute

Paper coffee cups are upcycled to biodegradable items like gift boxes, envelopes, and coasters with plantable seeds

5. Mamma Mia!

Probably the last thing I’d have imagined while boarding my flight to Riyadh three years ago was singing away to ABBA’s Mamma Mia in a cozy lounge! So much so that when a friend invited me for a little girls’ night in the heart of Riyadh, I simply refused to believe her.

“This is one of my favorite songs!” exclaimed the Saudi guy who recorded my video

Founded by a Saudi musician duo, Syrup Lounge hosts karaoke and game nights, jamming sessions, open mics, and even Cosplay/Comicon events throughout the week. Another cultural surprise given that it was not common to have a room full of mix-gendered audiences a few years ago, to a room full of young Saudi millennials and GenZs cheering on amateur singers.

Here’s a bonus experience – I planned a weekend Jeddah trip in late November 2021 when the city was gearing up to host F1 Grand Prix. Little did I expect I would be welcomed by this beauty at the new Jeddah International airport arrivals.

It sure is an exciting time to live in the Kingdom and experience this cultural transition firsthand.

Hope this article leaves you a tiny bit surprised by the Kingdom’s giant steps towards becoming a global economic and touristic hub.

Jeddah – Bride of the Red Sea

Let me just start by saying this – Saudi Arabia is underrated.

Having lived here for 2.5 years, I’ve had a chance to explore the Kingdom beyond the capital of Riyadh. Gorgeous natural rock formations, majestic red sand dunes, escarpments, Wadis, and caves just to name a few of those wonders. Being on the cusp of cultural transition and diversifying the country’s previously oil-based economy, there has been a strong focus on identifying and restoring historically significant locations, promoting traditional and contemporary art, and loosening the otherwise stringent social norms.

I recently traveled to Jeddah, a modern commercial hub, the earlier Diplomatic capital of Saudi Arabia, and a gateway for pilgrimages to the Islamic holy cities of Mecca and Medina. Local legends say that Jeddah (which literally translates to ‘grandmother’ in Arabic) is believed to be the burial ground of the Biblical and Quranic grandmother of humankind, Eve.

The new Jeddah airport arrivals

I knew Jeddah was gearing up for the FI Grand Prix that week but didn’t expect to see this beauty at the arrivals!

Hassan Enany Mosque at Al Hamra Corniche, Jeddah

Desert sunsets never fail to impress – be it by the sea or the sands

Here’s sharing my top four experiences in this port city:

Strolling the narrow alleyways of Al Balad – Jeddah’s historic district dating back to the 7th century. The neighborhood was once a thriving city center with houses built with coral limestone from the Red Sea and unique windows wherein the residents could enjoy a cool breeze and look at the street below with utmost privacy.

In the 1970s and 1980s, when Jeddah began to become wealthier as a result of the oil boom, many Jeddawis moved north, away from Al-Balad, as it reminded them of less prosperous times.

Abandoned homes with a mosque minaret in the background

Unique windows of Al Balad

Privacy guaranteed!

Some buildings were being restored for the upcoming Red Sea Festival

The unique architecture of this district deserved the title of UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014. I personally loved stumbling upon those colorful windows and imagining what life would have been like back in the day.

Notice the attire and vehicles used back in the day – Al Balad neighborhood

Couldn’t get enough of this particular house

Next up is the Darwish Salahmah museum – in fact, it’s a retired Saudi Air Force pilot’s front yard that he converted into an iconic mini-museum open to visitors for two hours (between 4:30-6:30 PM) every day. It displayed a wide array of scaled-down versions of mosques, historic landmarks, windows across varied Saudi regions, airplanes, cars, and even animals. Just stepping in through the artsy door decorated with several souvenirs from his travels, felt as though we were in a dream.

One simply can’t miss this dreamy house while walking past the street

Entrance door clad with souvenirs from world travels

Frontyard with beautiful hand-crafted artefacts and replicas

Abdul Raouf Khalil museum was another mind-blowing private collection by a Saudi merchant by that name. Over the course of 50 years, he collected over 60,000 artifacts of historical and cultural significance from the Arab world. Persian vases with intricate work, miniature and life-sized paintings, traditional clothing and jewelry, crystals, Islamic calligraphic texts, mosaic artwork, you name it!

Display of traditional Middle Eastern attires

Exploring the museum collection with a dear friend, Neamat

Mind-blowing intricate carving work on the silver Persian vase from the previous photo

My favorite bit was the immersive experience of walking inside the tableau homes from different regions of Saudi Arabia (Asir, Qassim, and Abha) – with entrance doors, majlis seating, bedrooms, and kitchen; all decorated with colorful walls, tapestry, carpets, and equipped with traditional seating, bedding, utensils and much more. What further stood out were the ones with a Saudi wedding and life in a Bedouin tent.

Living room interiors of a traditional home

Classic colorful print from the Abha region adorning the walls

Saudi wedding scene

Life in a Bedouin camp

Visiting Jeddah and not watching the sunset by the Red Sea is like visiting Egypt and not seeing the pyramids! Watching the unobstructed views of solar hues while soaking in the sound of waves lashing on the rocks with curious chubby crabs peeking through the gaps was a balmy experience.

Gorgeous sunset from the Red Sea Resort bay

As I always say, ‘People make Places’ and Jeddah was no different. Traveling with a close Peruvian friend and learning about her rich culture, meeting up with a Syrian friend whom I met at my London University Alumni meet-up in Riyadh a year earlier; definitely made my trip all the more enriching and fun.

Conversations over pizza and calamari with Carla and Neamat at Portofino (one of the oldest Italian restaurants in Jeddah owned by a sweet Italian grandpa)

A Rendezvous with Ramadan

As a Cross-cultural Psychologist, I crave serendipitous encounters that help me delve deeper into a culture. One of my main reasons for relocating to Saudi Arabia was to learn as much as I could about its otherwise unknown and lazily stereotyped culture. While most of us grew up learning that Ramadan is a month of fasting for our Muslim friends across the world, I experienced it firsthand in Saudi this year and would love to share some of my observations.

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  Wearing the traditional Saudi garb – Abaya

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  Ramadan decorations at the Hilton, Riyadh

Below are some (probably unexpected) ‘tip of the iceberg’ observations in the city of Riyadh ~

• The traffic in Riyadh could go berserk between 5:00 to 6:30 pm, as everyone rushes home to their families in time for Iftar.
• To my surprise, most restaurants were empty during Iftar since they banned buffet meals this year due to COVID-19. And rightly so, who would want to wait for ‘A la carte’ after fasting for over 15 hours!
• It is interesting to watch cafes fill up around 10:00 pm when locals step out for coffee and dessert.
• Most malls and hypermarkets are open until 2 am and some even through the night, buzzing with locals stocking up for the week.
• Public places are rather peaceful with no music or TV screens.

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  Festive decoration in public spaces

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  Ramadan vibe at Granada mall, Riyadh

Cultural tidbit: Families decorate their houses with special Ramadan lights, lamps and wall hangings.

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My next door neighbour lighting her lamps at the call for Maghrib prayer

In the process of diving deeper into the flavor of Ramadan, I asked some of my Arab friends to share what the Holy month meant to them.

Ramadan is a time for mental and physical detox, seeking a raised level of closeness to God through an act of deeply personal worship. “Iftar is like a Thanksgiving dinner”, says a Saudi friend.

“We watch a new television series with the family” shared another when I asked if she had a Ramadan family ritual. “We also go for a walk before breaking fast and play card games after”, she added. Apparently brands pay a lot for commercials during these Ramadan series as the TRP is the highest in this month compared to all year round. So much so that an Arab News article called Ramadan as the Super Bowl of MidEast advertising.

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‘Tash ma Tash’, a Saudi satirical comedy literally translating to ‘No big deal’ ran successfully for 18 seasons straight.

One major tweak to my lifestyle after moving to Saudi Arabia was to track prayer timings through the day so I could plan my grocery runs around it. For those who are not aware, most public places including supermarkets, stores and restaurants remain shut for over 30 minutes for prayer, four times during the day. During Ramadan, however, I tend to feel a strong energy in the air as soon as I hear the Maghrib call for prayer – imagining families coming together and having their first sip of water after long hours of fasting, followed by some juicy dates, aromatic Kahwah and a colorful spread of meaty delicacies.

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  Iftar meal at the Ritz Carlton, Riyadh

A Jordanian friend while sharing her experience said; “Spiritually I feel serene throughout fasting and more in connection with God followed by a sense of accomplishment after I treat myself with food. It helps me realize the worth of many things that I otherwise take for granted – it makes me more perceptive and empathetic.”

Cultural tidbit: Typically the fast is broken with water and dates. While some also prefer a refreshing drink of Rooh Afza, Jallab or Vimto.

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  A table clad with Iftar appetizers at our Pakistani friend’s residence

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The meal is concluded with fresh fruits, Arabic desserts like Umm Ali, Kunafeh, Baklava and washed down with a khosas of Kahwa

“Ramadan is also a month of giving so we donate clothes and food and also plant trees” added an Egyptian friend. Philanthropic deeds are encouraged as the belief is, ‘God will doubly reward you if you give back to the society’.

As an expat in Saudi, I’d like to share some tips with my fellow expats and anyone who might be interacting with Saudis during Ramadan ~

• Best to hydrate well before leaving your house or car. If you or your kids need to drink water, you could head to a washroom in the malls and consume some.
• Opting for modest dressing especially during the day. Men to avoid shorts and women to wear loosely fitted clothing or Abayas.
• Listening to music/watching videos aloud would be impolite. Carry a pair of earphones if you need to.
• It is not unusual to receive late night official calls. In which case, don’t forget to put your phones on silent mode before sleeping. For all you know you might get a call after midnight to confirm a dental appointment for the next day.
• Do not assume your ’10:30′ appointment or meeting would be in the morning!

Cultural tidbit: Most locals would stay up until Suhoor/Sehri (around 3:45 am), have a snack and sleep until late morning. So they are bound to be more active through the late night hours.

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  Pouches and baskets to serve and gift sweets

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  Vibrant wicker containers to serve nuts and sweets during Eid

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  Typical Middle Eastern Bakhoor Mabkhara (incense burners)

While we make the most of exploring the lively night markets and Iftar feasts, let us also embrace the very essence of Ramadan by being mindful, kind and forgiving : )

Edge of the World ~ Greetings from Saudi Arabia

What an intriguing name to a place! High on my Saudi travel bucket-list ever since I heard about it, I finally made it there on my six-month Riyadh anniversary in December 2019.

A 90-minute drive through quaint little towns, listening to Arabic tunes, Indian Bollywood and some Filipino pop, we saw the landscape transform from muddy walls and silky roads to a sandy, bumpy off-road. The further we drove; the feels of having landed on Mars kicked in, though the occasional camel sighting kept us in check.

Where on earth are we?!

Our convoy finally made it to a common meeting point, where we set out for a mini trek to reach the viewing point. As you can barely see the cliff until you’re just about 50 meters away, the terrain slowly unveiled the suspense to a majestic climax. Watching our step and dodging the gravel, we cantered to what’s popularly known as ‘Edge of the World’.

Mini hike to the viewpoint

I (for obvious reasons) wouldn’t recommend this place to people with vertigo

The giant escarpment with the sun setting on the horizon and the wind gushing through the cliff was a sight to behold. I simply sat on the edge of the cliff with my feet dangling, gazing into the infinite landscape, and imagining it as an ocean bed some million years ago. I could’ve sat there a whole hour if it weren’t for the (brave) photo enthusiasts queuing up behind me.

As the folklore goes, the shepherds and their sheep couldn’t go any further down the slope so locals decided to call it the Edge of the World. True to its name, it really does feel like there couldn’t be anything beyond that vast expanse.

In case you’re taken back to your Geography lessons from school and are curious as to how this landscape came to be, here’s my simplified version of a wiki explanation ~ the escarpment was formed as a result of erosion that separated two areas having different elevations, thus, forming the steep slope and the sudden drop.

The raw beauty of the Tuwaiq escarpment is indeed breathtaking and pictures don’t justify its magnanimity. It cuts through the plateau of Najd in central Arabia and runs for over 800 kilometers.

Watching the sunset hues transform from bright yellow to orange to crimson, we hiked back and headed to our campsite. A cozy campfire, piping hot Arabian tea and a majlis styled seating awaited us. Switching between stargazing and sitting cozy in the tent, we binged freshly barbecued chicken and soft white rice.

Nothing beats the warmth of a cozy campfire with Arabic music for company

We were then tempted into exploring a (hidden) bat cave near our campsite. Excited, we put on our safety helmets and followed the group into the cave. Damp and humid, and quite contrary to the 11 degrees outside, the cave was full of tiny bats sticking out from the uneven textured ceiling.

Apart from the thrill and excitement, the further we ventured into the cave, I found myself praying that we don’t get attacked by a dozen bats flying into our faces when someone in the group accidentally flashed their torchlight at crystal formations in a dark corner diverting our attention and fading that nightmarish thought away!

After 15-minutes of adrenaline rush and a mild sauna experience, we were out in the cold again, amazed at the temperature difference between the land surface and just 3 meters underground – totally living the Geography lessons here.

Shortly on our way back through the pitch-dark (never ending) dirt road, my hungover state of mind kept going back to the mind-boggling views from the day.

It sure was an ideal end to a super eventful 2019, packed with travels and life adventures. Here’s to many more day trips exploring Saudi Arabia’s raw beauty and culture…

 

 

 

My life in Riyadh (part 1)

“I’m taking up a job in Riyadh”, he said. “Of all the places in the world?” I exclaimed louder than I intended. A few minutes into the call and I found myself saying, “Why not?”

A year later, I was on a 4.5 hour-long flight from Hyderabad (India) to Riyadh (Kingdom of Saudi Arabia). The sweet smell of Arabian oud floating in the aircraft, an inflight Arabic prayer before takeoff and off we were on a new life adventure.

Five months have passed to that day and I vividly remember the unique terrain of Riyadh – all sand with no sight of civilization. As we descended further, symmetric clusters of mono-colored houses appeared that almost resembled microchips.

As we landed, I dug out my black Abaya from the handbag and anxiously put it on; looking around to spot fellow female passengers for comfort and noticed only a handful of them in the entire flight.

In transition: I later learned that I don’t need to wear the Abaya to and fro the airport. It now saves me the trouble of carrying it in my handbag every time I take a flight out and in to Riyadh.

Going back to my first impressions, to my relief, the Riyadh airport gave a familiar vibe, with Arab immigration officers and staff that reminded me of my Dubai days. One foot out of the air-conditioned airport, and I was hit by the afternoon heat wave.

Culture shock: The dry desert heat in summers (May-September) is at a whole new level and I fail to describe the intensity in words. You step out of the house at even 10 PM and it’s no different than stepping out at noon.

Although warm, desert sunsets are beautiful

A Careem ride (Saudi’s Uber) to our apartment was a great way to get a glimpse of the city. The Indian in me who’s used to vibrant colors couldn’t help but notice the monochrome of sandy brown as a dominant color of streets, sidewalks, buildings, and stores. The smooth, wide roads and the noise free ride was quite a contrast to the Indian organized chaos.

Having said that, the ‘compound’ premises that we live in are fairly green and I like calling it our little oasis. So what is a ‘compound’, really?

Our oasis a.k.a compound premises

Well, it’s a gated community exclusively catering to expatriate accommodation that comprises of villas/apartments with common amenities like a swimming pool, gym, restaurant, etc. Now, I’ve always been an advocate of integrating into the local culture and making local friends but moving to Riyadh, I learnt that you cannot make friends the same way in each culture – some require going out of your way to build formal connections and eventually finding a ‘close friend’ among them. I’ve made many other friends from diverse nationalities in the compound – my ultimate motivation to strive in a foreign culture while my quest for a Saudi friend continues…

Living in a ‘compound’ means not needing to wear my Abaya every time I step outside my apartment and I need not be conscious of holding my husband’s hand!

Cultural surprise: ‘Segregation’ of the genders is strongly practiced in public places like cafes, restaurants, movie theaters and even some stores. There are separate ‘singles section’ (for men only) and ‘family section’ (for families and single women) in every restaurant. Needless to say, the family section is always the more bustling one and gets better service 😉 However, the following image is an exception.

Can you spot the families dining behind each compartment?

In transition: However, there are new arrangements developing whereby the segregation of men and women is less marked than before and it is not uncommon to see a group of young (unmarried) men and women sharing a table in cafes.

I’ll be honest; the sloth in me never enjoyed cooking until I moved to Riyadh. I’m happy cooking up my limited Indian curry recipes which demand two visits to the grocery store every week. And believe it or not, two hours just fly by when you’re lost in the aisles and spoilt for choice in the hypermarkets.

Spent only 15 minutes looking for a can of refined sunflower cooking oil 

Cultural surprise: What’s interesting is that the stores in Riyadh are open until late hours (1 AM) and are most crowded at 11 PM! Majority of the billing counters are operated by Saudi women who are efficient and greet you with a warm smile.

11:30 PM @ Carrefour

And no, not all Saudi women wear a Niqab to cover their faces although they all do wear the Hijab (the head scarf). An Abaya (the flowy black national attire) is however, a mandate (or at least was until a few weeks ago) for all expat women.

So, do I wear a ‘burka’ in Riyadh? 

I personally have enjoyed wearing the Abaya as it has its advantages.

1. I literally get ready to step out in two minutes – wear whatever I like inside and no one would judge
2. It’s super comfortable, except for the couple times in my initial days when I almost tripped over it
3. It covers all flab (but again, I’m not sure if that’s really an advantage)
4. It’s a great way to ‘fit in’ into the local surroundings

Braving the 46 degrees in my black garb 

It’s safe to say that I’ve come a long way from “of all the places in the world?” to “hey, this feels like home” 🙂 After all, home is where you are, isn’t it?

Coming up next is a post with some more cultural observations as part of my everyday life in Riyadh with an attempt to demystify this fast transforming Arabian culture.